What makes harvesting grapes on an organic vineyard so special, and how does it differ from harvesting in conventional viticulture?

At my organic biodynamic winery, the harvest begins long before autumn. I work with living soils, biodiversity, and biodynamic methods to grow healthy, resilient grapes. Without access to synthetic chemical aids, I have to look more closely, harvest more selectively, and often make several passes through the vineyard. In conventional operations, the machines often set the pace of the harvest, but for me, it is the ripeness of each individual grape that decides. This makes the harvest more laborious, but also more authentic – it’s how character is created in wine.

What particular challenges does organic winemaking bring in autumn – but also throughout the rest of the year – for instance when dealing with fungal diseases or unpredictable weather?

Organic biodynamic viticulture means working within tight constraints. I can only rely on copper and sulphur to combat diseases such as downy mildew and powdery mildew. That’s why I depend heavily on close observation, quick reactions, and the power of biodynamic preparations like horn manure and horn silica, which strengthen the vines and keep the soil healthy. On top of that come extreme weather conditions: late frosts in spring, summer heat, and autumn humidity. Each season requires me to remain flexible and never settle into routine. But that’s exactly what makes my work so dynamic and exciting.

How do you determine the perfect time to harvest? Do you follow a special ritual at your winery each year during the harvest?

I don’t rely solely on sugar, acidity, or pH levels. For me, it’s the taste that counts. When the grapes are golden and aromatic, the seeds have turned nutty brown, and the flavor is pure, then I know it’s time. My ritual is very simple: in the evening I walk through the vineyards, take my time tasting the berries, and listen to my inner voice. This quiet moment after a long day in the vineyard is the starting signal for the next day’s harvest.

Do you recall a particularly remarkable – or perhaps even unusual – harvest in recent years?

I will never forget 2014. It was a year full of rain and botrytis, and we had to select every single grape by hand. In the end, however, we produced great, long-lasting wines. That experience taught me that commitment and perseverance decide success or failure. In contrast, the 2018 harvest was unusual, as we harvested in the middle of a heatwave and the grapes ripened almost too quickly – flexibility was key. Both vintages proved to be truly outstanding.

Looking at the current vintage: what can wine lovers especially look forward to? 

So far, 2025 has been a year of balance: healthy grapes, distinct aromas, and a perfect balance of freshness and ripeness. The harvest yields grapes with fine acidity and precise fruit expression. To me, it’s truly a vintage of the century.

Do you have a favourite wine-related anecdote that you like to tell?

Let me tell you a story: many years ago, I tasted a Riesling from a very old vineyard and was amazed at how lively and profound it still was after all this time. It made me realise that wine is more than just a drink – it’s a record of its year, its place, and the people who nurtured it.

Our last question: Do you have a favourite wine – and can you tell us how you came to know and love it?

My heart beats clearly for Riesling. I discovered its versatility when I realised how it can be crystal clear and taut, sometimes playful, sometimes serious, always full of character. I am most moved by Rieslings from barren sites, such as the Moselle or Saar, where it achieves a pure, precise expression. This interplay of clarity and depth has stayed with me since the 2007 vintage – Riesling has been my personal favourite ever since.